NEIGHBORHOOD
NOSH
Blu Greek Taverna
26 Mill St., Marietta. 770-429-4096
By H.M. CAULEY
For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 09/28/2006
Mill Street in Marietta is shaping up as a small
stretch of Restaurant Row.
On the end nearest the railroad tracks is Thaicoon
and around the corner is Cafe Crepe. Closer to the
square is the Traveling Fare caterers. And tucked in
between is the newcomer, Blu Greek Taverna.
The former art gallery has been transformed into a
restaurant you'd expect to find sitting next
to the deep blue Mediterranean. Instead, it's across
from the Cool Beans coffee shop and the rumbling CSX
trains. But no matter — step beyond the white stucco
and blue-shuttered exterior, sit down to a plate of
feta and olives, grilled octopus or stuffed grape
leaves and forget this is Marietta.
HOW IT HAPPENED
Owner Jean-Louis Constantinides came up with the
concept because he lives close to the square. "I
wanted an original Greek place to eat, so I came up
with this taverna," he said. "It's the same as what
you'd find in Athens."
Constantinides oversaw a complete renovation of the
former retail space that was housed in an antebellum
cotton warehouse. It's now a 120-seat restaurant
with stunning shades of blue and bright whites. The
ocean color jumps out from the ceiling in the main
dining room, from the blue table tops and from the
giant mural of the sea that covers a back wall. The
hardwood floors and exposed brick walls are part of
what's left from the original space.
IT'S IMPORTED
Once the look was right, Constantinides began
importing food to keep the menu authentic.
"Everything is brought in, from the cheeses to the
olive oils," he said.
The menu introduces diners to Greek dishes and
explains them in parenthesized English, so you can
order the eggplant spread instead of the
melitzanosalata. Start off with hand-rolled
beef meatballs (keftedes) or halloumi, a Cyprian
goat cheese that's flambéed in vodka at your
tableside. The traditional spanakopita is layers of
pastry dough stuffed with feta and spinach. The
smelts are lightly battered and fried in sunflower
oil.
Can't decide on one dip? Go for a sampler platter of
all four: caviar and potato; eggplant; yogurt and
cucumber; and garbanzo bean with beef, pine nuts and
olive oil.
The souvlakia (kebobs) are skewered with vegetables,
chicken, beef tenderloin and lamb. Beef or veggie
moussaka and lamb stew are other traditional dishes.
But if you're just hankering for a steak, go for the
16-ounce grilled T-bone and rib eye, or the
marinated lamb chops. Swordfish, chicken, salmon,
prawns and snapper are also grilled and served with
veggies and lemon potatoes. Round out the meal with
sides of fries, green beans, orzo and pilaf.
WHAT'S NEXT
Constantinides is stocking a basement wine cellar
with about 1,600 bottles. But you'll have to wait
for the liquor license to be approved before you can
pop a cork.
He's also planning on turning the space next door
into a lounge and bar that will open before the
holidays.
